The Durango Herald

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<img src=3D'http://www.durangoherald.com/storyimage/DU/20141106/SPORTS0=
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avelers venturing out on a two-week bus trip along Mexico=E2=80=99s Baja pe=
ninsula stretch their legs at a park in Catavi=C3=B1a. The destination alon=
g Highway 1 attracts sightseers with the promise of stunning desert vistas =
and ancient cave paintings.' style=3D'float:left;padding:5px' />

As my boyfriend and I walked around, I spotted a banner advertising a fire=
works display to take place that night. A bustling city on a Saturday eveni=
ng, a vantage point to die for and a show - that combination sat in the bac=
k of my mind as we pushed through the streets lined with restaurants, coffe=
e shops, an outdoor gift market and no-prescription-needed pharmacies. As n=
ight fell, we strategized for the fireworks. That high vantage point sounde=
d perfect. The air grew cool. Boat owners were lighting up their vessels wi=
th strings of lights in red, orange, blue and white. If living in Washingto=
n, D.C., had taught me anything, it was that a top-floor bar would be clogg=
ed with revelers and sight-seekers on a weekend like this. Yet when we arri=
ved, we found a lone couple at a table. A bartender made desultory circuits=
around the floor. Whether the place hadnt made it into guidebooks or visit=
ors just didnt crave a view, I cant say. But we had the place to ourselves =
as the fireworks canopies bloomed over the water. The next morning brought =
its own surprises. As the sun warmed the air, I left the bus and waded into=
chilly water in a beachside town. I was just awake enough to be confused. =
Not confused about how Charles had safely maneuvered a 20-ton bus through l=
oose sand without sinking. Or about how, the night before, William had led =
us in performing what Green Tortoise folks call the Miracle: transforming t=
he seating area of our bus into a huge bed and the overhead luggage compart=
ments into bunks so that all 30-plus passengers could sleep lying down as w=
e drove through the night. I didnt even question why this water was so cold=
, when arid desert stretched all around. No, I was wondering about food. Ha=
dnt the itinerary mentioned waking up to breakfast? And hadnt the Green Tor=
toise website indicated that the coaches had kitchens? As a freelance food =
writer, I was sure that I remembered those details correctly. But I had yet=
to see so much as a hot plate on our coach, and the town of low huts and s=
crawny gardens showed no sign of even a mom-and-pop store, let alone a cate=
red spread. Then all of a sudden, a kitchen materialized. I stood stunned a=
s my fellow travelers pulled folding tables and cases of food from the buss=
luggage compartment. To the clattering music of plastic dishes and metal f=
latware, perishables emerged from a cooler under the passenger seats. In no=
time, we were enjoying a generous breakfast, complete with fresh watermelo=
n and hot coffee. We would dine on gourmet-caliber meals for the rest of th=
e trip, thanks to savvy shopping by our drivers, passenger involvement in m=
eal prep, and ice and water available along the way. A three-bin dishwashin=
g system with seawater, soap and a touch of bleach always followed. We spen=
t the days around Christmas at a rustic campsite tucked between the Sea of =
Cortez and tree-covered hills, aptly called Playa Escondida, which means hi=
dden beach. This was the private beach and winter home of Green Tortoise ow=
ner Lyle Kent. It was also where I started to understand why this place so =
impressed Cousteau. A few minutes after donning snorkel and mask, I found m=
yself in water that buzzed with more life than all my other snorkel adventu=
res combined. Schools of neon-striped yellowtail raced below me. Sea anemon=
es swayed. Bright blue fish flitted by. Only through glass aquarium walls h=
ad I ever seen such a vibrant marine hub. In the first two days, we hiked t=
hrough narrow slot canyons, dry riverbeds and mud flats. <br>
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<br>Fuente <a href=3D'http://www.durangoherald.com/article/20141106/SPORTS0=
5/141109678/-1/sports&source=3DRSS' >http://www.durangoherald.com/article/2=
0141106/SPORTS05/141109678/-1/sports&source=3DRSS</a></p>